Iceland

The study trip to Iceland offered a comprehensive exploration of Icelandic culture, history, nature, and museum practices as outlined in the RO-CULTURE open call, „Storytelling in Museums” bilateral initiative. We had the opportunity to visit a diverse range of museums and cultural sites.

Our excursion on the 28th of October commenced with a tour of the Árni Magnússon Institute for Icelandic Studies, a prestigious repository for the Icelandic sagas. This independently financed research center is the custodian of around 2,000 manuscripts and fragments that are of immense cultural and historical value, including notable texts like the Poetic Edda’s Codex Regius and the Codex Flateyensis. A significant number of these manuscripts were repatriated from Denmark starting in April 1971, culminating with the last batch in 1997. Ingibjörg Thorisdottir, the Director of Communications, unveiled the blueprint for the forthcoming “World in Words” exhibition, which was scheduled to debut on November 16, 2024.

Our visit continued at The National Museum of Iceland, where we were welcomed by the Director of the National Museum and the Director of Customer Services. In her presentation, Kristín Yr Hrafnkelsdóttir emphasized that, although 70% of visitors are international, the local community remains the institution’s primary focus since its founding in 1863. The steady increase in visitor numbers and the growth in the museum shop and café revenue can also be attributed to the extended Monday hours. With the guidance of museum educator Johanna Bergmann, we enjoyed a comprehensive tour of the permanent exhibitions.

Our journey concluded at The National Art Gallery of Iceland. where we were greeted by museum educator Marta Maria Jonsdóttir. She delivered an extensive overview of the gallery’s dynamic educational programs. The offerings are diverse, ranging from the Krummi Kids club, which caters to young minds, to customized workshops designed for adults, the elderly, and people with disabilities, alongside the innovative Sjonarafl method for visual literacy. Additionally, the experience was enriched by a curated tour through the gallery’s diverse exhibits.

On the 29th, we began our second day on the Westman Islands, home to Iceland’s largest puffin colony, with a visit to the Eldheimar Museum. Opened in May 2014, this museum was built around a house partially buried in ash and is dedicated to Iceland’s largest natural disaster: the 1973 eruption of the Eldfell volcano on Heimaey Island. Using an audio guide, we gained insight into the tragic events of that night, the days and weeks that followed, including the midnight evacuation of over 5,000 residents and the destruction of 400 out of 1,400 homes. Another highlight was the exhibit dedicated to Surtsey Island, a volcanic island that emerged from the sea during a prolonged eruption between 1963 and 1967. In July 2008, Surtsey was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List due to its conservation efforts and its exceptional role in documenting the natural process of land colonization by plants, animals, and marine life.

The second part of our day consisted from a visit to the Westman Island Culture House, which also houses the exhibitions of the Westman Island Folk Museum. This cultural hub offers a deep dive into the local heritage, showcasing a range of exhibits that reflect the rich history and traditions of the Westman Islands. Local historian Helga Hallbergsdóttir started with a captivating presentation on the Turkish pirate raid of 1627, a dark chapter in the island’s history. She vividly described how 300 pirates landed on the island and captured 242 inhabitants, who were subsequently sold into slavery. To illustrate the event, Hallbergsdóttir used a large panel with striking caricatures.

It was followed by a second exhibition curated by Kári Bjarnason, the director of the Culture House. This exhibition was based on Bjarnason’s decades-long research into the history of the first Icelandic Mormon missionaries. It told the story of how these missionaries were able to convince around 200 islanders to emigrate from the Westman Islands to Utah, USA. When asked whether this mass emigration was ultimately “worth it” for the islanders, Kári Bjarnason provided an insightful perspective. He pointed out that the emigrants were essentially leaving one difficult home environment, only to arrive in a new, equally challenging world in Utah. So, while the Mormon missionaries were successful in persuading a significant number of Westman Islanders to relocate, Bjarnason’s commentary suggested that the emigrants may not have found the new life in the United States to be a major improvement over their original circumstances in Iceland. This exhibition and Bjarnason’s commentary gave a nuanced understanding of this important chapter of Icelandic emigration history and its complex realities for those who chose to leave their homeland.

Gigja Óskardóttir, the director of the Folk Museum gave us a tour of their exhibitions, which included an area depicting the harbour and dock, fishing, and processing of catches.

For our third from last section of our tour on the Westman Islands we stopped at Skansinn fortress, built in 1586 to protect Danish trade interests, and later rebuilt after the 1627 Turkish raid to safeguard the island from future attacks. The fortress complex also includes a replica of the Westman Islands first church, donated by the Norwegian government in 2000 to mark the 1,000th anniversary of Iceland’s conversion to Christianity. This replica pays homage to the original church, which was lost probably to the sea. We then managed to visit Landlyst, also a replica from 2000 of the oldest house of the island, and first maternity house in Iceland, now housing a medical exhibition. This house gave the opportunity to learn about the history of healthcare in Iceland through the preservation and repurposing of this historically significant building.

Our second-to-last stop of the day was at the privately owned Herjólfsdalur Viking House, a Viking wax museum that tells the story of the first family to settle on the island around the year 900. We concluded a busy day with a reception at the City Council House, where Deputy Mayor Drífa Gunnarsdóttir presented on the current and future prospects of the municipality and island. A key focus of her talk was the critical issue of preserving the island’s water source. The highlight of the day for all participants was the stunning display of the Northern Lights.

On the 30th, our journey took us from the Westman Islands back to the mainland of Iceland. Our initial explorations on the southern coast led us to the majestic waterfalls of Gljúfrabúi and Seljalandsfoss. We ventured into a cave-like opening to experience Gljúfrabúi up close and enjoyed the unique perspective of walking behind the cascading waters of Seljalandsfoss.

At The Lava Centre in Hvolsvöllur, we met with the manager Bárdur Örn Gunnarsson, who shared insights about establishing and operating a privately-funded, for-profit museum. While they rent their building, the center owns all exhibition content. Gunnarsson explained that a private museum’s success relies on three key factors: strategic location, quality content, and innovative presentation. The Centre’s business model focuses heavily on international visitors, particularly educated, upper-middle-class tourists from the USA, EU, and Asia, who comprise 96% of their visitors. The domestic market represents only 4% of their audience. To maximize visitor numbers, they are open all day of the week, plan to construct a 250-room hotel next to the museum, and invest significantly in marketing efforts. Regarding content and presentation, the Centre employed Iceland’s leading geologist to develop their core narrative, incorporated modern technology including immersive rooms, VR experiences, interactive displays, and focuses on enhancing visitor experience through innovative storytelling techniques. While emphasizing entertainment value through these technological features, Gunnarsson pointed out that the Centre maintains its identity as a museum rather than a theme park.

The day continued for the group with a guided tour of the historic site of Skálholt (cathedral, archaeological remains), by the manager Herdís Friðriksdóttir. Skálholt is known, to be the capital of Iceland for about 750 years, the bedrock of Christianity in the country, and one of the most densely populated places in the country. The day ended with a short visit at Thingvellir National Park, which has been described as the national shrine of Iceland due to its historical and geological significance. It is here that the Althingi, Iceland’s also the world’s first parliament was founded in 930, and where you can walk between two continents, due to the meeting of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.

We spent the next two days on what is known as the miniature version of Iceland – the Snaefellsnes peninsula. Anna Melsted, the curator of the Norwegian House in Stykkishólmur, has shown us the significant impact a community can have on shaping exhibitions. Her guidance demonstrated how community input and collaboration shape the way cultural exhibits are presented and interpreted, showing that when a community contributes to an exhibition’s storytelling, it creates a more meaningful and resonant narrative. Guided by the insights and support of the community, the rooms within the distinguished Norwegian House have been revitalized. This historic building stands as the centrepiece of the peninsula’s regional museum, its spaces are now a testament to the collaborative spirit of the area’s inhabitants. Constructed in 1832, this historic Icelandic house stands as the first two-level building made of timber in the country. Its exhibits are dedicated to its founders, Árni Ó. Thorlacius and Anna M. Steenback, while also describing the profound transformations experienced by various generations within the community over the past two hundred years. These include the advent of mechanization in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the impact of both world wars and the subsequent periods of crisis, as well as the revolution in communications.

Our journey to Hraunhals farm was a testament to a family’s devotion and, by extension, the entire community’s efforts to safeguard the Eyrbyggja saga, an Icelandic treasure renowned for its historical significance and folklore. In addition to their discussions about the saga, the community has launched a large-scale project to create a tapestry depicting the Eyrbyggja saga. This ambitious undertaking relies on, and would not be possible without the active participation and dedication of local community members and volunteers who have a strong personal connection to this historical narrative.

On the second to last day of our journey, we ventured through the breathtaking landscapes provided by the Snaefellsnes peninsula, including the iconic Kirkjufell mountain and its neighbouring waterfall, renowned from the legendary HBO series Game of Thrones, as well as Djúpalónssandur bay, characterized by its imposing dark cliffs and striking black sands. We also witnessed how spirited cultural entrepreneurs in small fishing towns like Hellissandur can transform a former fish factory into a social hostel, professional theatre, and artist residency. Thanks to the initiative of The Freezer multicultural house, Hellissandur’s streets have transformed into an open-air art gallery, showcasing over 40 big, and spectacular outdoor murals. It appears that small towns on the peninsula serve as ideal retreats for artists, providing ample inspiration. One such artist is Bjarni Sigurbjörnsson, a renowned Icelandic artist with a background in fine arts from the San Francisco Art Institute. Sigurbjörnsson, renowned for his dynamic and expressive works, finds inspiration in these tranquil settings. We witnessed this firsthand during our visit to his shared studio with his wife.

Individuals with a strong sense of dedication and commitment to their community can make a significant impact. Ragnhildur Sigurdadóttir, the general director of the Snaefellsnes Regional Park and a leading storyteller, has demonstrated that even a single person’s efforts can bring remarkable changes to a peninsula with a population of only 4040. To implement the projects approved by the regional park’s board, a dedicated individual is needed. She is the leader, who has been instrumental in fostering sustainable tourism, community development, and preserving cultural heritage by safeguarding the region’s folklore, history, and art.

The study trip ended for all of us in a delightful blend of history and culinary delight. We wandered through the streets of Reykjavik, guided by the captivating stories of historian Stefan Pallson, before indulging in Iceland’s famous pulsa hot dog. Thus, the curtain fell on the tale of the land sculpted by fire and ice, where nature’s apparent tranquility intertwines with the vibrant energy of Viking culture.